Tiger Foam - Spray Foam Calculation Page
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Q. How to calculate spray foam requirement for project?

A. Due to the variety of application and different formulas of Tiger Foam Air Sealant that are available, there is several formulas for determining the quantity of product required for the job.

First read the general basics about the spray foam air sealant kits.Then we will explain how to use and calculate the amount of spray foam required for your projectusing the Slow Rise Formulas and Fast Rise Formulas. Or use our custom-build foam spray calculator at any time.

If you have problems calculating, simply call our sales office directly at (888) 844-3736 and they'll be happy to do the calculations for you.

General Information About Spray Foam Sealant Kits:

• Unless otherwise stated, the density of TIGER FOAM is 1.75 lbs. per cubic foot.
• TIGER FOAM 2 component foams are rated at R-6.2 per inch.
• The size of the kit, i.e. 600 or 200 is indicative of the board foot coverage or expanded yield for that kit. Thus, a 600 kit will cover 600 square feet at 1" thick. A board foot as it relates to this product is a square foot one inch thick. The kit size is yield of the kit expanded.
• CUBIC FEET: conversion to cubic foot yield for these kits is generally a: 600 = 50 cubic feet, a 200 yields 16 cubic feet of foam.
• Filling liquid tanks with foam for EPA mandates, flotation devices, etc.: to convert gallons to cubic feet, multiply gallons X 0.1337 i.e. a 500 gallon tank would be 500 x 0.1337 = 66.85 cu. ft. to fill this tank (or very close to it) you would need to use the Slow Rise (SR) formula. A TF600SR is 50 cu. ft. and an TF-200 is 16 cubic feet for a total of 66 cu. ft. yield, which should be close enough for government work.
• TIGER Foam contains NO Penta-BDEs as a fire retardant.

Spray Foam Application Conditions

Fire Rating: Both foam products are E-84 Fire Rated and formulated with self-extinguishing fire retardants.

Outdoor Protection: Any polyurethane foam can be used in outdoor conditions, but it must be painted with any latex paint or other coating to protect it from UV or sunlight, which makes the foam turn bright yellow and brittle.

Optimal Chemical Temperature: All air sealant foam kits should be stored at a temperature between 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit. If the chemical temperature falls below 55 degrees F, the canister won't spray foam. The temperature of the surface you are spraying or the temperature of the air is not in question. Only the CHEMICAL TEMPERATURE is critical.

You can warm the kits by keeping them next to a heat source or in a warm place overnight. You can also blow hot air from forced air heater onto the tanks for a couple of hours or so before you start. Keep an eye on the chemical temps if you are spraying in cold weather. You may have always wanted an infrared thermometer. If you are spending 4 figures on foam, the infrared thermometer ($50 at sears) may be a good investment to insure you have the chemical is at optimal temperature.

Surface Temperature: The temperature of the surface you are spraying or the temperature of the air is not in question. However, keep an eye on the chemical temperature if you are spraying in cold weather.

Using the Spray Nozzle

All of the foam kits are equipped with plenty of extra nozzle tips. If you stop spraying for more than 30-45 seconds or spray constantly for 6-8 minutes, the foam inside the tip will cure and harden. If you continue to spray with a blocked nozzle, the foam will back up into the gun and throw the pressure ratios off.

The tips snap on and off very easy so a replacement is very quick. Generally, the tips included are all you need unless you anticipate stopping and starting a lot. If this is the case, you can order extra spray nozzle tips when you order a kit for ease of mind. Click here to learn more about reusing nozzle tips and closing spray foam kits for later use.

These kits, especially the larger ones, are under pretty high pressure. So the further you pull back on the trigger, the faster the foam comes out. What you need to do is slowly increase your pull on the trigger to get the gun primed and the vortex in the tip right so the product mixes well or you end up spraying 'flat' foam that doesn't expand as much as it should because it isn't mixing right in the tip.

You really don't need to pull the trigger back any more than a quarter of the way for best control, at least until you get below half a tank. Then you’ll have to pull back further on the trigger to get the same flow rate since there will be less propellant left. To put an inch on, you'll just pull back a quarter of the way on the trigger and move your arm at a pretty good speed to get an inch. To put 2 inches on, just move your arm a bit slower.

Overall, these kits and guns are excellent and the best in the industry. We pride ourselves on support and our technical support is available 6 days a week at 1-888-844-3736 (can't get them to work Sundays :p)

5 Simple Guidelines for Using Spray Foam :

To have a stress-free spray foam sealant experience, just remember 5 simple things:

1. The chemical temperature needs to be optimally between 75 degrees F and 85 degrees F. A good rule of thumb is if the metal tank is warm to the touch, you are good to go.
2. Rock the tanks for a minute or so before you start spraying to mix the propellant well. Otherwise, you'll leave about 5% in the bottom of the tanks. If you rock the tanks before you start, they'll empty completely.
3. Change the tips when you need to. If you have started spraying and stop for more then 45 seconds before you start spraying again, or spaying non stop for 6-8 minutes you need to change the tip because it will be plugged up with cured foam. We give you extra tips with each kit for this purpose. (When in Doubt Switch them out) Use them and your life will be a good one...
4. Start out slow and gradual with the trigger when you first start spraying out so you prime the gun and have a smooth flow and good mixing in the nozzle.
5. Cover up. This is very adhesive. It will stick to your hair. Sometimes, when spraying overhead especially, there may be a fine mist of back spray. Where gloves, goggles and enough gear to protect yourself. It doesn't hurt you; it's just that nothing will take it off. It has to wear off. There isn’t a LOT of overspray, hardly any at all, but you do need to be aware.

Of course, we are available to answer any questions. We have thousands of satisfied customers and three who didn't believe me about making sure the tanks were warm. This product is really a boon to the do-it-yourselfer and builder or contractor.

Spray Foam Calculations

Now for how to calculate how much spray foam you need...and some other useful information concerning different air sealing applications.

Tiger Foam has two types spray foam air sealant formulas:

1. Slow Rise Formula
2. Fast Rise Formula

TIGER Foam's Fast Rise (FR) is formulated for surface spraying. Use for air selaing open frame walls in new construction buildings, air sealing crawl spaces and basement ceilings, and air sealing metal walls.

TIGER Foam's Slow Rise (SR) pour in place formula is a low-expansion foam that is made to expand slowly and fill existing plastered or drywall covered walls completely without the risk of creating too much pressure and blowing the drywall halfway across the room. This product is especially suited to air seal homes that were built without insulation/air sealant in the outside walls or as a soundproofing for common walls in condominiums, apartments, and to isolate family rooms, bathrooms, laundry rooms from excess noise. Also used for filling boat hulls, pontoons, and flotation devices, or anywhere injected foam can be used.

Covered Wall Air Sealing: Soundproofing or Air Sealing

Many outside walls on older homes lack insulation/air sealant in the exterior walls. In a 2"x 4" wall you will get an R-24 and in a 2"x 6" wall, you will get an R-38. This may or may not be the right choice in a 2"x 6" wall if you are in Florida or Southern California, but if you are in Canada in the mountains, Shorelines, Plains, or anywhere it just plain gets cold!! This may be exactly what you need.

Calculating amount of spray foam required for outside walls:

1. Measure your outside walls length x height to get the gross square footage
2. Subtract the linear square footage of any doors or windows in that wall to get the net square footage.
3. Use the net square footage and subtract 10% for the studs (which won't be sprayed)
4. Take that total and multiply it by 3.5" for a 2"x 4" wall or multiply by 5.5" for a 2"x 6" wall
5. The grand total provides the number of board feet required to complete the project

8' x 10' = 80 sq feet in outside walls
80’ – 21’ (3’x7’) = 50 sq feet
50 x 10% = 45 sq feet to air seal

For 2” x 4” cavity: 45' x 3.5” = 157.5 board feet to air seal. For a 2” x 6” cavity: 45' x 5.5” = 247.5 board feet to seal.

You will need one TF-200 SR kit for the 2” x 4” wall. You will need two TF-200 SR or one TF-600 SR kit for the 2” x 6” wall. Note that this product is less expensive the more you buy. A 600 bd ft kit is almost the same price as 2 of the TF-200s, so buying a large 600 kit is 30% free product over buying 2 of the 200 bd. ft. kits.

Filling Pontoons with Foam

Your average 17-foot pontoon set requires a TF-600 kit and a TF- 200 kit to fill both pontoons.

Spray Foam Seal for New Construction Open Wall Cavities:

To calculate how much you will need for air sealing open frame walls:

1. Measure your outside walls length x height to get your raw square footage.
2. Measure the doors and windows for the total square footage of each
3. Subtract the total square footage of the windows and doors and subtract that from the raw square footage of the walls
4. Take that number and subtract 10% for the studs.

Example: You have a house that is 40'x20' with 8' walls. Say there's 120 sq. ft. of windows and doors.

40+40+20+20 = 120 x 8' = 960 total sq. ft. in the outside walls
960-120= 840 sq. ft.
840 x 10% = 756 sq. ft. of area that needs to be coated in foam

This job would require one TF-600 kit and one TF-200 kit.

Spray Foam Sealing Crawl Spaces and Basement Ceilings

Crawl spaces and basement ceilings, including rim joists are calculated at simple board footage. For instance, if your crawlspace is 20'x 30', that equals 600 sq. ft.

This air sealing job requires only one TF-600 kit to warm the floors and block draftiness from air infiltration coming up the walls from the crawlspace or basement.

Spray Foam Sealing Metal Buildings Walls and Ceilings

Metal buildings are figured on gross sq. footage of wall and ceilings. Here's how to calculate how much spray foam you will need for metal walls and ceilings:

1. Calculate the linear footage of your metal building
2. Multiple this total by the height of your walls

Example: You have a 20' x 30' metal building with 10' walls.

20+20+30+30 = 100 linear feet
100 x 10 = 1000 sq. ft

If you are doing the ceiling also, it's 20'x 30' = 600 sq. ft. Add that total to 1,000 sq. ft of walls and you need to cover 1,600 sq. ft. Three of the TF-600 kits will do that, even allowing for a 3:1 pitch in the roof.

Sealing Hot Tubs and Spas

Filling Liquid Tanks with Spray Foam

55-gallon drums, commonly used to make floating platforms and the like, require 7.53 cu. ft. of foam each to fill. The TF-600 SR kit is 50 cubic feet and will fill 6 1/2 - 55 gallon drums.

A TF-600 SR kit is 50 cubic feet. - will fill 6 - 55 gallon drums
A TF-200 SR kit is 16 cubic feet. - will fill 2 - 55-gallon drums

For different size drums or tanks: 1 gallon = approximately 0.1337 cubic feet.

If it is below 65 degrees outside where you live, you really need to put a heat source on these tanks to get the full yield. A ceramic heater or electric heater with a fan works well. The warmer they are, the better the yield. If you don't keep the tanks warm, you will not get the yield out of the kits and will run out of foam.

It's a basic bell curve. Maximum yield is achieved when tanks are between 70 and 85 degrees. If you were doing a large project, it would pay to invest in a laser thermometer for $50 at Sears or Home Depot. If a TF-600 gets below 60 degrees, you can loose 30% of the yield, so the thermometer would be a good investment. If the chemical temperature gets below 55 degrees F, the foam doesn't expand and will run.

We say leave them in the house or a heated space, but many folks don't realize that if it's fall weather or you keep your house at 68 to 70 degrees F, then the chemical temperature is only going to be about 61 degrees if you set it on the floor in the house. BEST BET: Put a heat source on these kits an hour or two before you use them and remember they need to be warm to the touch to get the full yield. Or, in the summer, put them in the sun for a couple of hours then rock the tanks for a minute or so to distribute the propellant and the heat evenly.

This foam expands and adheres great within its proscribed temperature ranges. KEY WORDS: TANKS WARM TO THE TOUCH! They also take a couple of hours to heat up with warm air blowing over them, but they also take time to cool down. You don't have to keep heat on them while you are spraying. Just get them warm just before you start and, unless it's below 20 degrees out, they won't cool down in the time it takes to spray a kit. A little common sense when using these kits really makes them work well.

Do not subject them to open flame to warm them up. Do not use a blowtorch to warm them up. (Sorry, that was a real question called into us, so we thought we'd address it before it was asked again)

These kits are a dream to use in the summer, but they do take special attention to chemical temperatures in the winter months. We appreciate you taking the time to understand this.

Also, noting that there may be a "10-12% yield loss" from optimum theoretical conditions may be helpful to prevent some of the yield claims that have been experienced.

Full Foam Installation Instructions

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